Article mis à jour le 10 Sep 2024
Road trip in the Balkans : One-week itinerary
The countries of the Balkans offer an incomparable wealth of culture, history and nature. I had the opportunity to discover some of them during my road trip in the Balkans. I was particularly taken with Montenegro, which is full of natural gems. From the Adriatic Sea to the mountains, via inland villages, we’re in for a real treat !
Before I start telling you about my week-long trip to the Balkans, here are a few tips to help you get organised :
> For practical information : when to go to the Balkans, the budget for a week, and so on. For practical information : when to go to the Balkans, budget for a week, etc., see the end of this article (click to go there directly).
One-week road trip in the Balkans
On this road trip, we’ll be visiting 3 Balkan countries : Croatia, Montenegro and Bosnia.
Day 1 : Arrival in Montenegro
You’ll take your first steps into the Balkans at Podgorica airport.
➡️ Niagara Falls in Montenegro
For this first stage, head for Vopodad Nijagara to contemplate these beautiful falls, which are much smaller than the real Niagara Falls. You can swim here and in the nearby Cijevna Canyon. The crystalline blue water really makes you want to enjoy the cool waters of the river.
I didn’t get a chance to swim there, though, as it was raining on my first day of travelling in the Balkans. So if you do make it there, send me your best selfie on Instagram !
➡️ Karuc, the fishing village
If you want to taste fresh fish and discover an authentic Montenegrin fishing village, you have to go to Karuc. It has an idyllic location between vineyards and Lake Skadar. Even in the rain, I found it splendid, so I can only imagine what it must be like in the sunshine.
You can hire boats and pedalos on site. For a bite to eat, I tried the Karucki Krs Restoran on the waterfront. To get there, head towards the quay so that the staff can take you there by boat. It was super tasty and the setting is great !
➡️ Viewpoint on Lake Skadar
On your way out of Karuc, take a short diversions to the Pavlova Strana Viewpoint for a magnificent view of Lake Skadar. This landscape reminded me a lot of Vietnam. It’s a complete change of scenery.
😴 Where to sleep in Virpazar ?
For this first night, I stayed at the Hotel Pelikan in a village called Virpazar. It’s located on the shores of Lake Skadar. If you get there before dark, you can visit the Besac fortress on foot from the village. It dates from the 15th century and was built by the Turks.
For dinner, there are plenty of charming restaurants in Virpazar.
Day 2 : Tara Canyon
Today, we’ll be discovering one of Montenegro’s most beautiful landscapes – Europe’s largest canyon. The Tara Canyon is 80 km long and 1,300 metres deep. As well as its impressive size, it’s its emerald blue/green colour that makes it so exceptional ! Well, except when there’s been a huge storm like me, the water is all brown, but I swear that in normal times it’s magnificent 😂.
For lunch, try to pack a small picnic as the restaurants near the canyon are super touristy : not great.
➡️ Premcanski Most
The first stop is a historic 19th century bridge located in the heart of the forest. Premcanski Most overlooks the Skadar lake where you can swim if you want. The water is fresh but it feels good ! From there you can hike to the monastery of Dovolja (5.3 km).
Again, do not trust my photos because normally the water is turquoise blue. It had rained a lot the day before, which explains the brown color…
➡️ Tara Canyon and Tara Bridge
Although the place is very busy, it is worth a visit to admire the canyon and one of the most beautiful bridges in Europe ! On site, you can go for a walk, rafting, bungee jumping and… zip-line. You can walk on the Tara Bridge to enjoy the view.
Those who followed my journey on Instagram know how the zip line ended for me, but I recommend it ++. The scenery is splendid. The descent takes about 1 km and costs 30€ per person. Attention, there are several on the spot so ask to make the largest.
😴 Where to stay in the mountains of Montenegro ?
For this second day of road trip in Montenegro, I spent the night in a great hotel in the heart of nature. The small wooden chalets are charming and the environment is peaceful. Additional positive point : the delicious and gigantic breakfast. To book, it is here > Eco Camp Chalets Pod Gorom.
Day 3 : The Durmitor National Park in Montenegro
This day was one of my favorite ones of the itinerary as I was amazed by the landscapes !
➡️ Horse riding
I had a lot of fun riding in the Devil’s Lake nature reserve. The environment is of rare beauty and there was absolutely nobody. I really thought I was in a period film.
➡️ Vrazje Jezero
The famous Devil’s Lake is a must-see on a trip to Montenegro. Surrounded by mountains, its blue/green color on the contours and the contrast with the blue/black medium make it characteristic. It made me think a little about the cenotes of Mexico !
You can swim in the refreshing water of Devil’s Lake but… Know that a legend belongs to this place and as I love this kind of stories, I will tell you.
👿 The legend of Devil’s Lake in Montenegro
It is said that at the current location of the lake was a huge pine forest, inhabited by animals and ghosts. On a stormy day, lightning struck the forest and declared a fire: the animals escaped to Durmitor Park, the fairies went into the clouds and the Devil took refuge in the middle of the lake. He built a castle in ice crystals and it is said that he still lives there today. This would explain why this lake is the coldest in Durmitor Park. I see you perplexed in front of your screens, if you don’t believe me: go check. 😂
But be careful. The legend also says that when a young woman swims across the lake, the lake comes out of her castle to catch her and drags her to the bottom of her ice house. But do not be jealous: if it is a man who swims, he catches it too. So do not be too smart !
✨ Durmitor National Park
For the rest of the day, we will discover the Durmitor National Park which is the largest protected area in Montenegro. Durmitor has an impressive flora and fauna, including bears and wolves. I assure you, we do not cross on the roads (unless you try the devil 😏).
It’s really the perfect place for a road trip. There are also many hiking trails available for amateurs. I chose to take a short walk to the Black Lake (about 30 minutes from the parking lot).
➡️ Road to Piva Canyon
You will see for yourself, the P14 road through Durmitor National Park to Piva Canyon is beautiful. There are several places to stop for the view, and I recommend Durmitor View Point for a photo stop. The wooden frame installed is perfect for souvenir photos !
😴 Where to stay in Piva Canyon ?
I arrived quite late to the accommodation because I took my time to enjoy the mountains. This allowed me to discover the impressive Piva Canyon with a soft light at the end of the day. It is, in my opinion, even more beautiful than that of Tara !
To sleep, I went to the B&B Konak in Pluzine, located by the river. If you are lucky, your bungalow will have a view directly on the canyon !
Day 4 : Road trip from Montenegro to Bosnia
Today we cross the border from Montenegro to Bosnia. Before that, you can enjoy the Piva Canyon for a walk or a dip. When you drive to Bosnia, keep your eyes open ! The road runs along the canyon and there are many viewpoints.
🚗 Border crossing
You will have two checkpoints for each country, where you will need to present your passports and vehicle papers. That’s it ! You are in Bosnia.
➡️ Arrival in Bosnia
The weather was bad on my first day of travel in Bosnia, so my first impression was not great. It was raining so much that I did not stop to visit the places recommended in the road book (lakes, hiking…).
➡️ Konjic
Konjic is a small Bosnian town which is famous for its old bridge, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The historic city centre is small but charming. I recommend you to have dinner there.
For history buffs, visit the Titov bunker, a well-kept secret of former Yugoslavia. It was once used by President Tito to hide during the war.
😴 Where to stay ?
I stayed at Valley Forest Lodges, 15 minutes from Konjic. The accommodation is quiet, the lodges are clean and renovated.
Day 5 : road trip in Bosnia
➡️ Canyon Korito Neretve
For this quiet day, we took advantage of one of the rivers in Bosnia : Neretva. Plan a picnic to enjoy the water.
❤️ Mostar, favorite of Bosnia
As I had not been convinced by the country so far, but Mostar has made me change my mind. I loved its old town, its lively shops and its typical architecture.
At 10 minutes drive from the center, I recommend you go to Fortica. This is a military historic fort that you can visit to learn more about history. But the main interest of Fortica is the 360° view it offers on the mountains and on Mostar. It’s a good idea to go there at the end of the day or for the sunset.
For a drink, I recommend you go to the wine bar The Spirit of Herzegovina to taste local wines in the heart of old Mostar.
😴 Where to stay ?
The Kapetanovina hotel is a great location in Mostar. The rooms are nicely decorated and quiet.
Day 6 : Road trip in the Balkans (Bosnia and Croatia)
➡️ Sunrise over Mostar
For the most motivated (of which I am not one 😂), I give you appointment at the Millennium Cross, a must-see place in Mostar. It is a perfect vantage point for sunrise, but it is quite similar to that of Fortica.
➡️ Blagaj Dervish House
We went to the Dervish House in Balgaj very early so that we wouldn’t be too late for the next stage. This place is beautiful and conducive to meditation. Indeed, it is a 16th century monastery built by and for the Dervishes, Muslim religious.
The monastery is on a river with small waterfalls, you can hardly do more peaceful. It seems that the entrance costs 10€ per person + 3€ parking. Personally I paid nothing (without doing it on purpose) because I parked in this street and I joined the monastery from the bank that faces it. There was no ticket office passing through.
❤️ Kravica Waterfall
Ladies and gentlemen, we now come to my second favorite of this road trip in the Balkans : the waterfall of Kravica. I advise you to be there between 9am and 10am before the crowd arrives. The entrance costs 10€ per person and it is worth them ! Have cash if you want to buy drinks or snacks downstairs.
The access is on foot in 10/15 minutes. The trail is very well laid out so the whole family can get there. When you discover the waterfalls, you will probably feel like I have landed in heaven. I warn you, the water of paradise is a little fresh but it feels good ! Once down, I advise you to walk along the small beach to pose all right of the photo below. There are fewer people in this place.
Where to eat ?
For lunch, the restaurant Konoba Izvor is not far from Kravica. The environment is super beautiful and they serve fresh fish at reasonable prices. I did not have the opportunity to eat there because unfortunately they do not take the card and I had no cash on me. So go test for me (with cash) and give me news !
🚗 Border Bosnia to Croatia
For the afternoon, I invite you to go to Croatia to enjoy the Adriatic Sea and Dubrovnik. For the beaches, you have several on the road between the border and Dubrovnik. Two of them caught my attention : Plaža Veliki žal and Šjekirica Beach.
If the conditions allow, I recommend this kayak trip to admire Dubrovnik from the sea and visit the beautiful cave of Betina.
➡️ Visit Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is a very popular place in Croatia and for good reason, the old town is absolutely splendid. Surrounded by old ramparts, it is full of historical monuments and stone alleys. To walk on the ramparts, you will need to buy the Dubrovnik Pass for 35€. The Pass also includes various entrances to monuments.
If you want to learn more about the history of the city, you can book a guided tour of Dubrovnik (free). The tour lasts one hour, only in English.
Where to park in Dubrovnik ?
I will answer this question by a negative: do not park near the ramparts. I had the misfortune to do it and it cost me 10€ per hour !!! As Dubrovnik is very touristic, the prices follow and are much higher than in Bosnia or Montenegro.
➡️ Sunset kayak tour
Another option if you haven’t already done it in the afternoon. I suggest you take a kayak ride at sunset. It will be an opportunity to admire the ramparts of Dubrovnik and the island of Lokrum.
😴 Where to stay ?
It’s time to cross the border again to go to the hotel Integra, a beautiful establishment located in Trebinje in Bosnia. Don’t worry, the journey from Dubrovnik is only 35 minutes.
If you have not yet eaten, there are many restaurants in the old town of Trebinje.
Day 7 : Road trip in Montenegro by the sea
➡️ Visit Perast and its islets
I liked Montenegro on the mountain side, but also the coastal part ! Perast is an idyllic place full of charm. Located in the bay of Kotor, there are plenty of things to see and do in the area.
In addition to visiting the city, you must take a boat to go to the small island of Notre-Dame-des-Roches. Many companies offer the trip but I recommend Pulena Boats because they have private parking. Count 10 or 15 € per person (depending on where you park) for the transfer on the island. The journey takes no more than 10 minutes and you will have time to enjoy the scenery.
For lunch, I ate at the Italian restaurant Locanda Perast. The location by the water is splendid and the food is good !
➡️ Kotor
Kotor is a must-see in Montenegro. Its cathedral, churches, cobbled streets and fortress make it a very popular city. In the afternoon, there are many people but it is quiet in the evening.
😴 Where to stay ?
This evening, the Balkan Nomads have booked a place in Kotor : Antika Guesthouse. This allows you to take advantage of the city to test one of the lively restaurants and enjoy peacefully the old town.
Day 8 : end of the road trip in the Balkans
The week-long itinerary in the Balkans is already coming to an end 😢 it’s time to head back to Podgorica airport.
➡️ The Kotor Coils
Leaving Kotor, you will pass by an original road in serpentines. As soon as you get up high, you can stop on the lower side to admire the panoramic view of the bay.
Be careful in the turns, some people drive like crazy so be vigilant !
➡️ Njegos Mausoleum
The last stop on this trip to the Balkans is the mausoleum of Njegos, located at the top of Mount Lovcen. It was built in honour of a Montenegrin ruler and poet. The mausoleum has nothing exceptional in itself, it is rather for the view of the mountains that I advise you to go there ! I did not have time to go because of my flight schedule.
If your plane is in the afternoon or evening, you can go visit the city center of Podgorica to finish in beauty !
Road trip in the Balkans : Practical information
☀️ When to leave ?
You can travel to the Balkans all year round. In winter, you can even ski ! However, I recommend you to leave between the beginning of July and mid-September. This is the ideal time for me because the temperatures are mild. Don’t worry about the attendance, these countries are outside of mass tourism!
Do I need a visa to travel to Montenegro, Bosnia and Croatia ?
The Visa Extension Program allows citizens of certain countries to travel to the Balkans for tourism. The Visa Extension Program is not available for all countries. So make sure to check if your country is eligible !
For UK and US citizens, you are exempt from visa for a stay of less than 90 days.
What budget should I have for a week-long itinerary in the Balkans ?
💵 Budget for a week
My expenses are as follows :
- Rental of 4×4 with GPS programmed + accommodation with breakfast : 690 € per person
- Fuel : 120€
- Food : 20€ / day/ person for 1 snack at lunch and 1 meal in the evening
- Flight : count about 300 € per person on direct flight and 150 € with 1 stopover from Paris. Prices may vary depending on the dates and departure cities. In August for example it is much more expensive !
- Zip line : 30€ per person
- Horse ride : 30€ per person
Budget for a week of road trip in the Balkans : € 1,255 per person, all inclusive.
Planning your trip : other information
The currency
In Croatia and Montenegro, you pay in euros. For Bosnia, the local currency is the Convertible Mark. For easy conversion, divide all prices by two to get the price in euros (2 Marks = 1 euro).
I advise you to have cash on you in Bosnia because there are a lot of places that do not take by the CB.
Are the Balkans dangerous ? Can you travel alone or between women ?
I traveled with my best friend and at no time did I feel insecure. Men sometimes had the look of insistence but it stopped there.
There is crime in the big cities, as everywhere. But you will not pass by it during this road trip itinerary.
How to get internet on your phone ?
Bosnia and Montenegro were not included in my package. I bought a Mtel SIM card for 10€. It includes 500 GB of internet and is valid for 7 days in both countries.
If it does not work when arriving in Bosnia (it happened to me), you can find another one at a gas station for a few euros. Always have the Maps.me or Google Maps app offline in case you don’t have a network.
My experience in the Balkans
I found the scenery absolutely beautiful and I had a real crush on Montenegro. Although I also liked its natural beauty, I am more concerned about Bosnia because I found the contact with locals complicated. I found the people a little aggressive and not very welcoming (except in Mostar). I even got yelled at twice like rotten fish at the gas station when I wanted to buy drinks, because I had only my credit card on me… I have nothing against cash payment but I think we can explain things calmly.
And this is just one anecdote among many ! So I prefer to warn you not to be offended or offended. If you go on, you will experience an incredible trip in the Balkans.
To dream elsewhere… Discover the city guide of Yann for 3 days in Prague.
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