Article mis à jour le 27 Feb 2024

What to do in Dominica ? : road trip itinerary and tips

If you’re looking for a natural destination away from mass tourism, you’ve come to the right place. I loved my week-long trip in Dominica. But what to do in Dominica ? This Caribbean island has so much to offer: its magnificent scenery, the friendliness of its people and its intimate atmosphere.

For those of you who follow me on Instagram, many of you have discovered this destination through my stories and posts, and I’m delighted ! I propose to discover what to do in Dominica in this complete travel guide to organize your trip in Dominica.

For practical information : when to go to Dominica, how to get around, the budget, safety, etc. See you at the end of the article (click to go there directly).

Road Trip itinerary : what to do in Dominica for a week ?

First of all, it’s important to take a look at the geography of Dominica, because the French don’t know much about it ! The island lies between Guadeloupe and Martinique. Don’t confuse it with the Dominican Republic, which lies between Cuba and Puerto Rico. They are really two different destinations.

By the way, if you’re interested in this other island, Yann has written an article on What to do in the Dominican Republic for 1 week ?

How do I go to Dominica ?

It may be a good idea to combine your trip to Dominica with a visit to Guadeloupe and/or Martinique. To get to Dominica, you can take a ferry from Pointe à Pitre or Fort de France to the port of Roseau, which will take you there in 2 hours 15 minutes. I paid €120 return from Guadeloupe. To date, there are no direct flights from France to Dominica, so opt for the boat!

→ Book your Express Islands ferry to Dominica

For more information on these two other wonderful destinations, check out our guide What to do in Guadeloupe ? Or a 10-day itinerary in Martinique.

Crossing by boat from Guadeloupe to Dominica

Do you get seasick ? If the answer is yes, make sure you take some medicine with you. The Dominica Channel has a reputation for being very rough, especially on the outward journey ! That day, we were unlucky because the swell was strong, so the boat shook quite a bit. It’s the first time in my life I’ve been sick on a boat 😂. Let me reassure you : the return journey is much calmer.

So you may be just as sore on the outward journey, but the crossing only takes 2 hours. As for border formalities on arrival, I’ve given you all the details at the end of the article in the practical information section.

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My itinerary for a week-long road trip : what to do in Dominica ?

There’s so much to do and see in Dominica ! Let’s take a look at the must-sees. During our week-long trip, we decided to spend 4 nights in the north of the island and 3 nights in the south.

Day 1 : Arrival in Roseau and drive to Portsmouth

It’s best to travel in the morning so you can make the most of the day. You’ll arrive at Roseau harbour where you can collect your hire car. Having both been taken ill on the boat, we took advantage of the afternoon to recover.

From the boat, it’s a 1-hour drive to Portsmouth. It’s an ideal base for visiting the north of the island.

Where to stay in the north of Dominica in Portsmouth ?

I tried out 2 hotels in Portsmouth and both were great places to stay.

Firstly, I started my road trip in Dominica by staying at The Champs hotel. This 5-room establishment is intimate. It offers comfort but also a magnificent view of the sea and the bay. The swimming pool is very pleasant, especially at sunset. We ate every day at The Champs restaurant, which was excellent and had lovely staff.

Then I was lucky enough to be invited to the InterContinental Dominica Cabrits, which is the most beautiful hotel I’ve ever seen. Everything has been perfectly laid out and sublimated, especially the pools, which are immense. The rooms are absolutely magnificent, some with sea views or private pools ! The SPA is also splendid, equipped with massage/treatment cabins, a sauna and a jacuzzi. If you want to pamper yourself, book at the InterContinental in Dominica.

For those on a budget, you’ll find a selection of hotels in Portsmouth on Booking.com

📍 Cold Soufriere

For your first day in Dominica, I’ve put together a leisurely programme. First, I invite you to head to Cold Soufriere, home to a unique volcanic phenomenon.

After crossing the small path, you’ll see a source of volcanic water that ‘boils’ but is cold. I didn’t get a precise explanation as to the origin of this phenomenon, but I imagine it has something to do with sulphuric gas escaping from the ground. In short, Cold Soufrière isn’t exceptionally beautiful, but you get there quickly and it’s fun to see !

→ Access : free, 5-minute walk. GPS coordinates

🏝️ What to do in Dominica ? Snorkelling and sunset at Toucari Bay

Just 10 minutes from Cold Soufriere, I invite you to head for the magnificent black sand beach of Toucari Bay. Here you can swim in the calm waters and snorkel along the rocks. You’ll find that this beach isn’t very busy, which makes it all the more heavenly.

For sunset, Toucari Bay is ideal. You can even have a drink or a bite to eat at the Keepin’ It Real restaurant, where the hammocks are.

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Day 2 : What to do in Dominica ? : Visit the North 

I have two suggestions for you. One is sporty, for those who like long hikes, and the other is more leisurely. I’ll let you guess which one I’ve chosen… Yes, I didn’t come here to suffer, OK ? 😂

📍 Boiling Lake hike

The hike to Boiling Lake is a must-do in Dominica. BUT you need to have your legs and knees well hooked 😭. To do this, you’ll need to leave at the crack of dawn and be at the start of the hike by 8am at the latest to avoid having to return at night. Allow between 6 and 8 hours’ walking (depending on your pace) to make the round trip.

The start is at Titou Gorge (which we’ll explore together on day 3). You can take a local guide if you wish, but it is not compulsory. The route takes you through the heart of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park in the tropical jungle. You’ll also pass through the Valley of Desolation (aptly named). After climbing a few more peaks, you’ll finally arrive at Boiling Lake.

→ What is Boiling Lake in Dominica ?

Boiling Lake in Dominica is the second largest boiling lake in the world. This one is nice and hot, so don’t stick your finger in it! It is the result of volcanic activity and is located on a crater. At 70 metres in diameter, it’s a natural wonder. If you embark on this hike, you’ll see this unique phenomenon : a bubbling lake from which smoke billows, right in the heart of a caldera.

⚠️ Warning : don’t embark on this adventure if the weather is too wet. As there are rivers to climb and cross, it could be dangerous. You need to be in good physical condition for this route, which is long (12 km) and has a steep gradient (850 m ascent).

➡️ What to do in Dominica in the North ?

For those who prefer to relax (like me), here’s a quiet programme for day 2, while others will be suffering on the Boiling Lake hike… 😈

📍 Ride on the Indian River

After a hearty breakfast, you can head peacefully to the Indian River, where you’ll be met by guides. To access this spot and many others in Dominica, you’ll need the Dominica Pass. Buy it at the petrol station next door (GPS coordinates), costing US$12 per person for 1 week.

If you want a friendly guide who speaks French, ask Spaghetti to take you on a pirogue trip. If he’s there, he’ll be happy to take you down the river and explain all about the flora and fauna. The cost is €50 (€25 per person) for a trip lasting around 1? to 2 hours.

The scenery is superb and you’ll even stop for a juice (or rum for the bravest) in a little riverside bar.

→ My advice for visiting the Indian River

Go early (before 9am) to avoid the moment when the Indian River resembles the Paris ring road on a Friday evening at 6pm. Indeed, Dominica is not very touristy and we were alone in some places. The main tourist influx to the island comes from large cruise ships that stay in port for 1 or 2 days. The tourists on these cruises go on organised excursions, so you have to be careful to avoid them. If you want to visit Indian River, start the walk like we did at around 8.30am.

📍 Cabrits National Park

This national park is home to history but also a few walking trails. We just did the short path up to Fort Shirley to enjoy the sea views. There’s nothing exceptional here but it’s a fun walk to do! You can pick up a map of Cabrits National Park at reception to find out about the various options.

→ Access : with the Dominica Pass

🏝️ Secret Beach

Unfortunately I didn’t have time to do it as my travelling companion wasn’t feeling well, so we stayed at the hotel pool for an afternoon. But I’d definitely recommend a trip to Secret Beach. This little cove with its crystal-clear waters nestles at the foot of a cliff. To get there, you’ll need to take a kayak from Coconut Beach in Portsmouth, as it’s only accessible by sea.

I don’t have any more information, as I didn’t try it myself ! But if anyone has any, please let me know in the comments to this article so that I can add it here. Thanks in advance. 😘

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Day 3 : Dominica road trip in the north of the island (continued)

Today we’ll continue visiting the north of Dominica.

📍 Pointe Baptiste and Red Rocks

To begin with, take the road to Pointe Baptiste to admire the Red Rocks. These are ochre-coloured cliffs that are very beautiful. On either side, you can enjoy sublime views of the ocean.

→ Access : park in the restaurant car park (GPS coordinates). 2 per person are charged to get there. 3-minute walk from the small gate.

🏝️ Number One Beach

Dominica has many black sand beaches. On the way to Number One Beach, it’s possible to stop off at the colourful little village Callibishies for a juice or a bite to eat, provided it’s open. Yes, shops in Dominica have rather random opening hours 😂.

Number One Beach is a beautiful, unspoilt beach that can be reached in a 5-10 minute walk. From here, the Hampstead River flows into the ocean.

🏝️ Batibou Beach

In my opinion, Batibou Beach is the most beautiful beach in Dominica ! As a little anecdote, it appeared in one of the Pirates of the Caribbean films. We were lucky enough to enjoy it on our own for 2 hours, but not many tourists come to this part of the island anyway.

Once on the beach, I felt like I was at the end of the world. With its huge coconut palms and vast expanse of black sand, Batibou Beach is magnificent. Be careful not to lie right under the coconut trees to avoid getting a coconut on your head. In reality, you rarely think about it, but it can hurt or even kill you !

→ Access : US$5 per person if the guard is present on the beach, you can always pay in US$ or XCD (Eastern Caribbean dollar). 15-minute walk. Park in this car park.

📍 Boiler Pool

For the continuation of this visit to Dominica, I suggest you cross the river coast with a short hike to Boiler Pool. From Batibou beach, it’s a 10/15 minute drive. It takes around 1 hour 20 minutes to walk there and back. The path is easy, although there is a slight gradient.

Make sure you bring waterproof footwear, as you’ll have to cross a river to reach the natural pool. Once there, we took a dip in the small pool where a waterfall cascades down. It was super beautiful !

→ Access : free. ⚠️ Warning : this is the only road in Dominica that I’ve crossed that is in very poor condition. If you don’t feel like driving on a narrow road with lots of holes, stop beforehand and walk, or don’t go ! It’s just the end of the road that’s tricky.

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Day 4 : What to do in the south of Dominica ?

We’ll now move on to the other part of the island. I’ll give you a day-by-day programme, which you can of course swap around as you wish.

Where to stay in southern Dominica ?

For the second part of my stay, I stayed at Jungle Bay, in Soufriere. This hotel blends in perfectly with the lush vegetation around it. The rooms are super cosy and decorated with natural materials. You feel like you’re in a cabin in the middle of nature – it’s magnificent. My favourite moment was waking up in the morning. I’d go out onto the terrace to admire the view of the mountains and the ocean, and all you could hear were the birds singing… A real little paradise !

The Jungle Bay restaurant offers a refined menu and is located just behind the infinity pool. The view is equally stunning. If you’re looking for a more authentic and economical place to eat, I tried the food at Teacher’s Place in Soufriere and it was excellent. She’s a lady who does takeaway food, so you can either enjoy your meal on the beach or at your hotel !

For those on a smaller budget, you can find other accommodation offers on Booking.com. I’d advise you to choose a hotel in the south, outside the busy town of Roseau.

🐳 Whale watching tour

Dominica is an ideal place for whale watching, as families of sperm whales are resident here all year round! So you’ve got a great chance of seeing some on a 3-hour excursion.

To book, contact PH Whale Watch on WhatsApp at +1 (767) 615 9211 a few days or more than a week beforehand to make sure you have a place. The cost is US$85 per person, and you can also pay in euros and local currency (via PayPal or in cash).

Snorkelling at Champagne Reef

Champagne Reef in Dominica is another unique natural phenomenon. Snorkelling there is magical ! And why is that ? Because bubbles rise from the ocean floor thanks to volcanic activity. It’s a magical sight, like being in an imaginary marine world.

If you don’t have a mask or snorkel, you can hire one on site. You’ll be asked to pay for a guide, but it’s not necessary. To find the bubbles, all you have to do is swim to the far left of the beach as you look out to sea (at the pebble pile). There are also some beautiful fish/coral just in front of the beach, so you’ll have to explore !

→ Access : US$2 per person. Small bar on site to grab a drink or hire sunbeds.

🐠 What to do in Dominica ? Snorkelling and swimming at Bubble Beach Spa

If you haven’t seen enough fish, I recommend you go to Bubble Beach, located in Soufrière. There’s also a bar and hot springs right in front of the beach. The view of the bay and the fishing boats from here is magnificent. It’s actually located right next to Teacher’s Place if you want to grab a bite to eat.

📍Sunset at Scotts Head

Scotts Head is one of Dominica’s pretty and colourful villages, at the very southern tip of the island. To watch the sun go down, head up to Cachacrou Peninsula. There is a small car park at the top so you can drive up.

The 360° panorama is breathtaking. On one side, the sun sets over the sea. On the other, the village, the bay and the mountains. I hope you’ll be lucky enough to see the clouds tint like I did… 🥰

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Days 5 and 6 : What to do in Dominica ? See the waterfalls and rainforest

As I said earlier, we lost a day because my friend wasn’t feeling very well, so we had to make some choices about the programme. First, I’m going to detail the stages of our day on the jungle side with all the details, and then I’m going to put together a list of beautiful places that I didn’t get to visit.

📍Trafalgar Falls and secret hot spring

Trafalgar Falls are a must-see in Dominica. It can be reached via a short path built in less than 5 minutes. It’s one of the stops on the excursions of the big cruises, so you’re likely to run into groups of tourists there. We were lucky and were absolutely alone (at around 9.30am). On site, two splendid waterfalls flow into the river !

→ Access : with the Dominica Pass.

Secret spot : the Trafalgar hot spring

Even if it’s crowded on the platform, don’t worry. Cruise tourists are generally older and won’t go as far as the hot springs. So you’ll probably be on your own.

At the foot of the waterfall on the left, we found a hot spring at the perfect temperature under which you can bask. It’s an incredible place, with the hot water flowing in on one side and the cold water of the waterfall on the other. Hot springs are usually easily recognised by the orange colour of the rock.

→ How do I get there ?

The path is hidden by vegetation so I’ll try to be as clear as possible. The aim is to get to the foot of the waterfall on the left to find the hot spring. So you have to go up the river on the left, walking on the rocks. Then fork a small path to the left. On the way out, we actually climbed the whole thing over the rocks, which was a bit tricky but doable.

On the way back, we realised that there was a semblance of a path through the ferns. Here’s the access in the photo below. Note that the vegetation grows very quickly in the tropical climate, so it may not look like this when you visit.

In any case, bring waterproof footwear and be careful not to slip on the rocks. And don’t forget your swimming costume !

📍Middleham Falls

Put on your hiking boots, dear readers, preferably dry ones for your comfort! If you want to admire Middleham Falls, it has to be earned. This 60-metre-high waterfall, surrounded by lush vegetation, is impressive. Once you’ve reached the observation platform, you can take a dip in the small natural pools below (but the water is cold!).

On the hiking trail, keep your ears open as you may be lucky enough to hear the song of a bird, the solitary whistler, which sounds an awful lot like the mocking jay in Hunger Games.

→ How do I get to Middleham Waterfall ?

GPS coordinates of the starting point of the walk

There are about 3km to walk with some gradient. On the sign they say 45 minutes each way, but I’d say it’s more like 1h – 1h15 so 2h – 2h30 each way! Before the last descent, you’ll come to an intersection with 3 directions where the path is not signposted. You’ll see an abandoned carbet and a sign on your right, but it’s the left-hand path that you should take.

In any case, make sure you have the Maps.Me map loaded on your phone to guide you on the road and hiking trails.

📍Titou Gorge 

This visit will be far less sporty, and it’s unusual to say the least! Titou Gorge is also located in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park (a UNESCO-listed site), right next to the start of the challenging Boiling Lake hike I mentioned above.

This is a magnificent spot, as visitors swim through the narrow rocky gorge in pure turquoise water from natural springs. However, the water temperature is a little cold, but there is a natural hot water shower at the entrance to the pool to warm you up.

→ How do I get to Titou Gorge ?

Access is free but you need to hire a compulsory lifejacket for €3.5 or a buoy for half the price. It can get quite crowded at Titou Gorge as it’s narrow and quite busy. Once again, we were lucky not to have anyone inside while we were there. On the way back, however, we came across a very noisy group shouting, so that inevitably made the moment less enchanting 😂.

If you’re not a good swimmer, don’t worry as the distance is very short. In just 3 minutes, you’ll reach the small waterfall that marks the end of the course.

♥️ Lunch break at Little Paradise

That’s it, the physical exertions are over for today! From now on, it’s all fun and relaxation. The restaurant Little Paradise is the best address I can recommend in Dominica.

We had a late lunch there, around 3pm. If you’re following my programme to the letter, make sure you take a snack to eat during your hikes so you don’t get too hungry. The food is delicious, the service super friendly and the prices are reasonable (€10 per person for 1 drink and 1 dish). The setting really does feel like paradise. You’ll let me know about the splendid view from the terrace. 🤩

📍 Natural spa with hot springs

If you’re in Little Paradise, you’re in the village of Wotten Waven, which is home to plenty of natural spas. A 1-minute drive from the restaurant, I chose to go to the Ti Gwen Glo Cho spa. There are several pools of hot water on site at different temperatures and I thought the facilities blended in really well with the surroundings. I just loved it !

➡️ What to do as unmissable places in Dominica ?

For day 6, here is a list of things to do in the south of the island that we had noted :

• Victoria Falls, hike 2h AR
• Sari Sari Falls, hike 1 hour AR
• Spanny Falls, 10-minute walk AR
• Rosalie Bay, for snorkelling with the turtles. From April to June, you may be lucky enough to see baby turtles heading out to sea.

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Day 7 : Road trip in Dominica, the end

Ohhhh it’s already the end of this “what to do in Dominica” itinerary 😢. To end on a positive note, I’ve got one last discovery in store for you.

📍 Emerald Pool

Another splendid and easily accessible spot. Within a 10-minute walk, nature offers us a natural pool with beautifully coloured water and a small waterfall. I visited Emerald Pool in the early afternoon and that’s not the best timing as it was in the shade. That’s why I’ve put it in the programme for the last morning. I think that around 10am, the light should be perfect!

→ Access : with the Dominica Pass.

After taking a dip in the refreshing water at Emerald Pool, it’ll be time to head to Roseau Harbour, a 40-minute drive away. Enjoy the crossing !

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Organising your trip to Dominica : Practical information

☀️ When to go to Dominica ?

Dominica’s climate is very similar to that of its neighbours, Guadeloupe and Martinique.

There are two distinct seasons. The dry season runs from February to June, while the wet season is from August to October. Of course, I recommend the dry season! I was there for a week between January and February, and the weather was perfect. Occasionally there were a few tropical showers, which is normal in this part of the world.

→ What language is spoken in Dominica ?

The official language of Dominica is English.

🚗 Where to hire a car ?

As Dominica is not very well developed touristically, you won’t find the classic rental companies. You’ll have to go through small local agencies and car rental prices are high. I chose UpperView Rentals for an entry-level car at €310 a week. I have to admit that it was a really crappy car but in the end it worked fine until it broke down. The gentleman was very friendly and responsive : within 1 hour he had another top-of-the-range car ready for us.

Conclusion : you can trust this local rental company, but I’d advise you to spend a bit more money to get a mid-range car (SUV type).

⚠️ Please note : Driving is on the left with the steering wheel on the right. If you’ve never experienced driving “backwards”, don’t worry: you get used to it very quickly ! The roads are in good condition throughout most of the island. An international driving licence is not required.

→ What are the formalities for entering Dominica ?

When we got off the boat, the formalities were very long. It took 1 hours in all, between passport control and hand luggage checks ! You don’t need a visa to travel to Dominica. However, when you take the return boat, you’ll have to pay a departure tax of €36 per person at the port office.

💰 How much should I budget for a one-week road trip in Dominica ?

Here are the details of my expenses :

• Car hire : €310
• Petrol : €60
• Food : Count on 15€ to 20€ per person for a meal in a hotel or less than 10€ in a local restaurant. We skipped a lot of lunches during the week because no restaurants were open. I’m going to consider a broad average of 25€ per person per day for 3 meals.
• Ferry from Guadeloupe : €126 return
• Dominica Pass : €11 per person
• Hotels : on average €100 per night in a comfortable hotel
• Activities : €105 per person
• Departure tax : €36 per person

Budget for 7-day trip to Dominica : €986 per person, including whale watching and Indian River excursions.

💶 Currency in Dominica

The local currency is the Caribbean dollar (EC $). Roughly speaking, you need to divide the amount by 3 to get the exchange into euros: 10 EC$ = €3.40 to date.

Locally, you can pay in US dollars and sometimes in euros too. Some places take credit cards, but not all. I therefore recommend that you carry a small amount of cash to pay for entrance to tourist attractions.

❗️Is Dominica a safe country ? Can you travel alone, with women or with children ?

YES, I travelled with my friend Ophélie and we felt very safe on the island! The locals are very welcoming and friendly. Rasta culture is present, which brings a relaxed atmosphere in Dominica.

→ How to have internet on your phone ?

I have not purchased a local SIM card but it is possible to do so. With the wifi of the hotels, we manage very well that said and it allows to disconnect during the day : happiness !

In any case when traveling : always plan to have the Maps.Me map of the destination downloaded on your phone so you can guide you with at any time, even without a network. The Windy app is also useful to have for weather forecasts.

And here it is, I hope this travel guide will be useful and will have made you want to discover the wonderful destination that is Dominica. If you have any questions that I have not answered, please leave me a comment below ! See you soon for new adventures 😘.

Aurelie

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